HVAC stands for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning. It is the system that heats and cools your home or building, helps manage humidity, moves air through the space, and supports indoor air quality.

For homeowners in Ontario, Webster, and the greater Rochester area, HVAC is really about one thing: keeping the home comfortable, safe, and efficient through western New York’s changing seasons.

Most residential and small commercial air conditioning systems use a split system to cool and condition indoor air. “Split” means the system has both indoor and outdoor components rather than being packaged in one cabinet.

The system circulates refrigerant in a closed loop. Inside the home, the refrigerant absorbs heat and humidity from the air. Outside, that heat is released into the outdoor air. In a forced-air system, the blower then moves the cooled air through the ductwork to the rooms that need it.

In practical terms, an air conditioner helps with:

• Cooling
• Humidity control
• Indoor comfort through spring, summer, and warmer fall days

Some modern systems also include auto changeover, which allows the unit to switch between heating and cooling as needed based on the set temperature.

ENERGY STAR is a program that was created by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to help businesses and individuals make energy efficient purchases. This program places the ENERGY STAR label, a small blue and white logo, on items that meet superior energy efficiency standards. This label provides an easy way for consumers to identify quality, high-efficiency products.

Air conditioning is a matured technology so most of the popular brands work well. Many of them use parts made by the same manufacturers. So, the main considerations are the price, warranty, attractiveness, noise, etc. Some manufacturers offer anywhere from a 10-12 year warranty on all parts while others offer only 1 year. Whatever you decide, the most important consideration is the contractor you use. For your protection, make sure you use a licensed contractor for your installation. A licensed contractor using best refrigerant practices and procedures can save you time and money! You may buy the best system in the world but if it is not properly installed, you will actually be buying nothing but a big headache for years to come.

The benefits of air conditioning are to give a comfortable environment at work or at home throughout the seasons, Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. An Air Conditioning unit can have two functions – heating/cooling and humidity control. With an auto changeover switch on most new units, you set the temperature and the unit will cool or heat as required automatically.

Most HVAC systems have a lifespan of about 10 to 15 years, while gas furnaces often last 20 to 25 years. As equipment gets older, efficiency can decrease, the system may get noisier, and repair needs usually become more frequent. If your system is over 10 years old, it is worth having it checked for maintenance needs, repair planning, or replacement options.

A heat pump is an all-in-one heating and cooling system that works year-round. During warmer months, it works like a normal air conditioner by pulling heat from inside the home and transferring it outside. During colder weather, it reverses that process and pulls heat from the outdoor air to warm the home.

Even when the outside air feels very cold, it still contains some usable heat. A heat pump captures that heat and moves it indoors. When outdoor heat is not enough to satisfy the thermostat setting, an electric heater can supplement the system. This process is highly efficient and can produce two to three times more heat than the energy it uses. That said, a heat pump usually costs more upfront than a cooling-only system, and the return depends on how much heating you use and whether the home is a good fit.

An air handler is usually a large metal cabinet that contains components such as a blower, heating or cooling elements, filter racks or chambers, sound attenuators, and dampers. It connects to ductwork and helps distribute conditioned air through the building and return air back to the system. In some ductless mini-split or multi-split systems, the air handler does not require ductwork at all.

BTU stands for British Thermal Unit. It is a unit of measure used to describe heating or cooling capacity. 1 BTU is the amount of heat required to raise or lower the temperature of 1 pound of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit. A common HVAC number to remember is that 12,000 BTUs equals 1 ton of cooling.

SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. It measures the cooling efficiency of an air conditioner or heat pump by comparing the cooling output over a typical cooling season to the total electric energy input over that same period. In general, a higher SEER rating means greater cooling efficiency.

One of the best ways to check heating efficiency is through regular maintenance with a qualified technician. During a maintenance visit, the system can be tested to make sure it is operating at the right level.

Homeowners can also watch for signs such as unusually high heating bills, longer run times, noisier operation, or uneven room temperatures. Keep in mind that efficiency is also affected by how well the home is insulated and sealed and whether the filter is clean.

There are five main questions that need to be considered when deciding to either replace or repair your heating and cooling system:

1. How old is your system? If your system is more than ten years old, it may be wiser to invest in new, higher efficiency equipment, which could cut your energy costs by up to 40%.
2. What is the efficiency level of your current system?
3. What was the efficiency when the system was new? Unfortunately, replacing parts of your old system will not improve the efficiency. If the energy savings of using a higher efficiency system will cover all or part of the cost of investing in new equipment, you should seriously consider replacement of the old system.
4. What is the overall condition of your system? If your system is in solid condition, it could be wiser to simply repair it. But if your system breaks down often, you should consider replacing it. Consider the 50% Rule.
5. The 50% Rule- If the cost of repair vs. replacement of your system is less than half of its value and you haven't been suffering the financial burden of frequent service calls to keep your system up and running, repair may be easier on your checkbook . Ask your technician to calculate the efficiency and energy usage of your system to help make a determination.

Installing a new system in a home that has not had central air and heat before can involve much more than just the main equipment. A full installation may include ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grilles, drain pans, and an evaporator coil.

Beyond the equipment itself, one of the most important parts is the ductwork. Ductwork has two main sections: supply and return. Supply ductwork delivers air to each area of the home. Return ductwork pulls air back to the system and includes the filter. The size and layout of the ductwork affect airflow, comfort, and system efficiency, which is why installation quality matters so much.

A ductless mini split system is composed of an indoor air handler/evaporator (fan coil), and outdoor condensing unit and an approximate 2.5-3" conduit that accommodates the power (wiring), refrigerant line sets and a PVC condensate line (drain). s an indoor fan, referred to as the head, and an outdoor compressor unit. Many styles of air handler/evaporator (fan coil) are readily available depending upon your projects needs. Ductless units can be either 1:1 Single mini-split systems or Multi-split systems that can heat/cool multiple rooms.

Ductless split systems can replace a traditional central ducted system or be used in addition to a central ducted system. It works in much the same way as a traditional air conditioner or heat pump, using an outdoor condensing unit, indoor air handler/evaporator (fan coil) with an outdoor condenser, attached to refrigerant line sets and a condensate drain line. The condenser is installed outside the home or business typically on a code approved surface. The conduit is then run from the outdoor unit to the individual room within the structure that you choose, even an attic or garage. Depending upon the system design, the use of wall-mounted interior units, ceiling mounted units, recessed fa coils, floor mounted air handlers are then installed and secured in the appropriately desired spaces to control cooling, heating and humidity as needed and designed. One or a series of indoor units and refrigeration lines are used to transfer the cooled air from the outdoor condenser to the indoor units of your choice. It works in reverse with heated air in the winter. Units can be placed in any rooms you like and because each unit is individual, you control the specific temperature in that room instead of needing to set one thermostat for the entire house. As a result, you save money by cooling or heating only the space you are using. One of its greatest advantages is TRUE ZONING!

It is not recommended. Ductless mini-split systems are less invasive than central air installations, but they are still sensitive pieces of equipment. Small installation mistakes can lead to major performance problems, shorten the life of the system, or void the manufacturer warranty.

A proper installation includes pressure testing, evacuation, vacuuming, refrigerant charging as needed, startup, and commissioning. That is why ductless systems are best installed by licensed, trained professionals.

In general, ductless mini-splits are very quiet. The sound from an indoor ductless air handler is usually comparable to a whisper in a library, or about 21 to 30 decibels. The sound from the outdoor unit is more like a normal conversation, or around 60 decibels, and is often quieter than a conventional air conditioning condenser.

Fuses and circuit breakers should not blow or trip under normal conditions. If that happens, start by identifying which breaker has tripped and whether it feels warm. Breakers should not feel warm or hot to the touch. If a breaker is warm or hot, contact a licensed electrician.

If the breaker feels normal, you may try resetting it once or replacing the fuse. If it trips again, the system should be checked by a licensed HVAC contractor or electrician. Possible causes include a loose electrical wire, a short to ground, or a failed compressor. Electricity is not something to guess with.

First, disconnect any additional devices that may have caused the overload. Then turn the breaker fully off before turning it back on. Breakers are mechanical devices, so they must be moved all the way off before they can reset properly.

If the breaker will not reset, feels sloppy, or trips again, there may be a more serious problem. At that point, call a licensed electrician.

Yes, a brief light blink can be normal when a large motor or compressor starts. These components can cause a small momentary voltage drop, which shows up as a quick blink in the lights. In most cases, this does not harm the electrical equipment in the home.

This usually means one of two things:

An intermittent chirp may indicate a defective smoke detector.

A consistent chirp usually indicates a low battery and the smoke detector needs a new battery.

Furnaces are commonly rated by AFUE, which stands for Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. AFUE measures how efficiently a furnace converts fuel into usable heat for the home.

For example, an AFUE of 90% means that 90% of the energy in the fuel becomes heat for the home, while the other 10% escapes through the chimney or elsewhere. According to the EPA, AFUE does not include heat losses from ductwork or piping, and those losses can be as much as 35% of the furnace’s output when ducts are in an attic, garage, or other unconditioned or partially conditioned space.

Current minimums are at least 80% AFUE in the South and 90% AFUE in the North. If your furnace is 10 to 15 years old, it may fall below current minimum standards and waste energy. AFUE is important, but it is only one factor to consider when choosing a new furnace.

Two-stage heating means a furnace has two levels of heat output: high for colder winter days and low for milder days. Because the low setting is enough to meet household heating needs about 80% of the time, a two-stage furnace usually runs longer at lower output, which can provide more even heat distribution and steadier comfort.

There are a few obvious signals that let you know when it’s time to upgrade your heating system. Frequent repairs, recent spikes in utility bills, and inconsistent temperatures in the home are a few warning signs that it’s time for a new heater. But if you’ve had the same heating system for twenty years or more, it would be a good idea to talk to an HVAC contractor about having it inspected to determine if it’s time for a heater replacement. Even if your old heater has worked without problems for years, a professional heating technician is trained to detect any possible operation or safety issues that are a direct indication that the system needs to be replaced. If you are concerned about your heating costs, you should talk to a heating professional about other options. Call us now to schedule your system's check up!

Hiring an HVAC contractor for professional advice is the best approach when you are in the market for a new heating system. Different types of heaters work better in some climates than others. Also, you would need to consider the available utility services in your area. Not all areas offer Natural gas or propane. Likewise, not all homes have sufficient electrical requirements to change from a heat pump to electric heat. Upo completion of a series of quick questions and a survey of your home or business, our Comfort Consultant can assist you in choosing a system that meets your heating needs. Give us a call and let's get started!

Furnace technology has advanced significantly in recent years. Modern furnaces are designed to provide more even and efficient heating than past furnaces, which can impact both how your system operates,sounds and what you notice about your system. To better regulate temperatures and airflow, modern furnaces move more air over the heat exchanger than older furnaces. The air that comes out of your furnace registers may not seem as warm as the air from your old furnace, but overall airflow is improved. Better airflow means higher comfort. Also, new furnaces are designed to integrate with high-efficiency air conditioners, so furnace blowers are more powerful to accommodate add-on cooling. Since cold air is much heavier than warm air, your system needs an extra boost from the blower to deliver cool air throughout your home. If you have an older home, this performance boost could produce unfamiliar sounds because air duct systems were originally designed for heating only. To minimize sound levels, choose a variable speed product which automatically changes speeds to meet the airflow needs of both heating and cooling cycles.

It’s recommended that you schedule a maintenance service visit once a year with a licensed HVAC technician. This will prolong the life of your heating system and keep it running safely and efficiently throughout the cold season. A qualified heating technician will thoroughly clean and inspect all of your heater’s components and make any necessary repairs or adjustments. Not only does this ensure that your heater is performing at optimal levels, which helps to save on overall heating costs, but it also allows the technician to address any major problems or safety concerns.

You may not find the filter in your home or business to be very important, but you should! There are actually 3 ways air can get filtered-1) through your AC filter, 2) it will get filtered through the AC coil and 3) it will get filtered again through YOURS and YOUR FAMILY'S lungs! Furnace manufacturers put inexpensive fiberglass filters into their furnaces to remove airborne particles that might damage the fan and the heating coil. Particle buildup can also decrease the efficiency of your furnace, as the furnace has to work harder to pull air through the return. More expensive filters can also improve the air quality in your house by removing pollen, bacteria and mold spores from the air. Don't let YOUR lungs be the filter for your air conditioner! Use the maximum efficiency filter designed for your system.This is especially important if you or someone in your family suffers from allergies or respiratory illnesses. If you do not know which filter that may be, then just ask us, we will be glad to point you in the right direction!

Start by checking the documentation that came with the furnace for the correct filter size. After that, make sure the filter efficiency is appropriate for the system. A filter that is too restrictive for the furnace can create excessive static pressure and may contribute to premature blower motor problems in some systems.

Usually no. In most forced-air systems, you can use a compatible filter from another source as long as the size and type are correct. However, ductless filters are often OEM parts, meaning original equipment manufacturer parts, and may not be available generically.

Filter efficiency refers to the percentage of airborne particles the filter removes. This is different from the fuel efficiency of the furnace itself. A high-efficiency furnace does not automatically require a high-efficiency filter.

What matters is choosing a filter that matches both the system and the air quality needs of the home. Also remember that failing to change or clean the filter regularly can reduce furnace efficiency no matter how efficient the furnace is on paper.

That depends on the type of filter, pets, allergies, dust levels, and how much the system runs. The current guidance on the page is:

• Disposable fiberglass panel or electrostatic panel filters: about 1 to 3 months
• Pleated filters: about 3 to 6 months

Even with those ranges, the safest habit is still to check the filter every month. Filters are inexpensive and easy to change, so there is little reason to wait until the system is already struggling.

It is a temperature-sensitive device that controls and regulates the temperature in a space for systems such as a furnace, air conditioner, or both. When the indoor temperature drops below or rises above the thermostat setting, the device initiates or terminates either the heat or cooling modes, depending upon the thermostat setting and temperature set point. When initiated your furnace or air conditioner runs to warm or cool the house air to the setting you selected for your family’s comfort.

There are five basic types of automatic and programmable thermostats:

• Manual
• Digital
• Digital- Non- Programmable
• Digital- Programmable
• Remote Access
• Touchscreen
• Wireless-WiFi
• Smart

Most range in price, call and ask us which is best for you. Think thermostats don't matter? Think Again! Thermostats control half of your home's energy use. That is more than appliances, computers, stereos and lighting combined!

Indoor air quality (IAQ) is a term which refers to the air quality within and around buildings and structures, especially as it relates to the health and comfort of building occupants. We spend most of our time indoors, so breathing healthy air where we live, work and play is critical. Indoor air pollution has the same negative effects as environmental pollution. Ask us how to identify and restore the indoor air quality in your home or office.

Both products are effective at removing harmful elements from the air, but UV Air Purifiers focus on removing airborne germs, bacteria and mold while filtration focuses on removing harmful particulates that become airborne.

Depending upon the style/brand of UV light purchased, ozone may or may not be part of the light's operation/function. Should you have concerns, consult one of our factory trained technicians. EPA: According to two studies, operating UV lamps installed in HVAC systems to irradiate the surfaces of air-handling units does not result in increased concentrations of ozone.

UV light can be harmful just as the sun’s UV light can be when someone is exposed for too long a time. One should neither look at or touch a UV light bulb while it is on for any length of time. Fortunately, when the UV light system is installed in your HVAC system, there is no direct or harmful exposure to you or your family. Remember to power off your purifier before replacing the lamps and do not look directly at a lamp that is powered on.

A UV air purifier usually requires very little maintenance. In most cases, the bulb should be replaced once per year or once every two years, depending on the model.

MERV stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value. It is a filter comparison system developed by ASHRAE, the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineers.

The MERV rating is designed to measure a filter’s ability to capture and hold particles and pollutants. The higher the MERV rating, the more particles the filter can remove from the air, including dust mites, pet dander, and allergens. A higher MERV rating can improve indoor air quality, but it can also make the system work a bit harder if the filter is too restrictive for the equipment.

Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value, or MERV, is a standardized filter rating system created by ASHRAE to simplify and standardize filter efficiency ratings. The higher the MERV rating, the higher the filtration efficiency.

For example, a MERV 12 filter will remove smaller particles than a MERV 8 filter. In general, MERV 8 and MERV 11 filters perform similarly to other filters in the same rating category. The MERV rating only applies to efficiency. Features like carbon, antibacterial treatments, or odor control are separate from the MERV number.

If allergies or asthma are a concern, the current page suggests using MERV 8 or higher.

The page currently uses these general filter life ranges:

1. Fiberglass filters: up to 30 days
2. Pleated filters: up to 90 days
3. Washable filters: wash every 30 days and last up to 5 years
4. Mini-pleated filters: vacuum every 60 days and last up to 1 year

There is no true standard life expectancy for a filter because homes vary so much based on occupancy, pets, smokers, dust, pollen, and local conditions. The best routine is still to check the filter monthly.

There is no one fixed schedule for every home. The filter life depends on the environment and the type of filter installed. Things that can make filters load faster include:

• the number of people in the home
• pets
• smoking
• open windows
• nearby pollen-bearing plants or trees
• dampness
• dry or dusty conditions

A good rule is to check the filter every month. If you hold it up to the light and cannot see through it, it is time to change it. At an absolute minimum, the page says to change it every three months.

Most central HVAC systems have the filter located near the blower, at the base of the air handler or furnace, or in a return duct grille. Remove the grille or cover, take out the dirty filter, and dispose of it in a bag to contain the dust.

Install the new or cleaned and fully dried filter with the airflow arrow pointing toward the blower. Record the date so you know when to check it again. If the home has unusually high dust levels due to construction, dry weather, or outside air conditions, you may need to change or wash the filter more often.

Your HVAC filter collects dust, dirt, grime, and other airborne particles to protect both the system and the air in your home. As the filter loads up, it gradually restricts airflow and makes the system work harder. That can:

• waste energy
• increase utility bills
• reduce indoor air quality
• worsen allergy or asthma symptoms
• contribute to equipment problems

If a filter is neglected long enough, it can severely choke airflow and potentially cause major system damage.

There is no one-size-fits-all schedule. The frequency depends on:

1. the type of filter
2. how much traffic the home or office gets
3. whether pets are present
4. how much the heating and air conditioning system operates

The best starting point is to check the filter once a month. If the home or office has remote wall or ceiling filters, those should be checked too. Always follow the filter manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning or replacement.

The warranty covers parts only. For complete details, refer to the warranty sheet provided with the unit. In some cases, your dealer may also provide a labor warranty or an extended warranty on the new equipment.

A home comfort system needs regular maintenance for the same reason a car does. It helps the system run safely, efficiently, and reliably over time.

Regular maintenance can help:

• catch small problems before they become expensive repairs
• improve efficiency
• support system lifespan
• maintain comfort
• reduce the chance of breakdowns during peak heating or cooling weather

A qualified technician can inspect the system, clean key components, confirm safe operation, and help keep the equipment performing at its best.